Monthly Archives: May 2013

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Day 17: Brno, Czech Republic to Blansko, Czech Republic


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Start: Brno, Czech Republic
End: Blansko, Czech Republic
Distance: 60.5km
Elevation Gain: 2225ft
Elevation Loss: 2012ft
Time: 3h transit; 4h exploring caves
Reading Material: The Czechs and the Lands of the Bohemian Crown – Hugh Agnew
Audio Material: Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me

Description
Legs are getting stronger. Was finally able to maintain a brisk 20km/hr pace on sustained, slight incline. I find it interesting how much road surface resistance impacts the ability to maintain speed. When the rig gets moving on smooth asphalt you can feel how momentum just wants to keep the tires rolling. But, on slightly rough asphalt you really have to work just to keep from slowing. I’m riding 1.75″ tires and wonder how narrower rubber would feel? Though, given the strange surfaces you encounter on a long tour (getting out of Brno was a maze of fractured sidewalks, missing paths, old railroad tracks with warped gaps and massive potholes), I doubt it would be a good idea.

Today’s ride was really only about 40km. This region north of Brno is known as Moravian Karst and is laced with limestone caverns. I arrived to the main tourist center Skalni Mlyn by 1130am, checked into the hotel and then started exploring. The caves are huge and I was only able to see 2 of the 4 before they closed for the evening (almost got to a 3rd but my improvised shortcut deadended at a 800ft cliff and I had to take the long 10km route around). I’ll check out some more caves tomorrow morning and then continue heading north.

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Ossuary

While the Ossuary at St. James Church in Brno goes a bit over the top with added touches, it easily rivals the catacombs in Paris. Though, I think they should replace the ambient choral music with some black metal.

Reading Czech History

One way to read Czech history is as an attempt to craft an independent, cohesive nation-state while being buffeted by large external forces (Germans, Russians/Slavs, the Holy Roman Empire, The Hapsburgs). Language is a powerful way to create unity. From 1817-19, several historical texts written in Czech and describing epic Slavic history were “discovered.” Over the next 70 years, these texts (known as the RKZ) became powerful fodder for creating a uniquely Czech national history.

Turns out they were fakes. Slavic Professor David Cooper has an interesting article on one of my favorite topics — authorship — in the context of these texts.

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Day 16: Laa an der Thaya, Austria to Brno, Czech Republic


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Start: Laa an der Thaya, Autria
End: Brno, Czech Republic
Distance: 86.8km
Elevation Gain: 1475ft
Elevation Loss: 1099ft
Time: 6h29m
Reading Material: The Czechs and the Lands of the Bohemian Crown – Hugh Agnew
Audio Material: Bullseye; Stuff You Should Know; Diane Rehm’s Friday roundup (domestic & international)

Description
After a small detour leaving Laa (cough) went the wrong way for 5km and had to backtrack (cough) it was smooth and flat sailing to Brno. Starting in Hevlin, I traveled for 10km on the same path I followed to Vienna. But, then hung a left and headed north towards Brno.

Stopped at a “bike” bar just south of the city for refreshments and a hamburger. I met Jacob — a younger Czech with excellent English — and had a good chat + photo op! The rain picked up and I got pretty soaked honing in on my accommodations, a cute B&B on the outskirts of Brno. Though, additional research would have revealed that it is located on top of a big hill which isn’t the most fun way to finish a day. But, should be a nice ride down in two days when I continue onwards.