four friends, Suzdal
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Monthly Archives: July 2013
#planking in Suzdal
Bicycle Brigades
While researching Soviet WWII history, I came across reference to bicycle brigades used by the Germans as part of the siege of Leningrad (St. Petersburg). Evidently, the bicycle infantryman was seen as a replacement for the cavalry messenger and able to transport supplies in places where truck and tank travel was impossible. There’s a whole lengthy history here (including pics of folding bicycles in action). So, maybe another antecedent for my current trip.
Day 47: Vladimir, Russia to Suzdal, Russia
Start: Vladimir, Russia
End: Suzdal, Russia
Distance: 47.5km
Elevation Gain: 1248ft
Elevation Loss: 1262ft
Time: 4h17m
Reading Material:Leningrad: The Epic Siege of World War II, 1941-1944 – Anna Reid
Audio Material: Diane Rehm Friday News Roundups
Description
A quick jaunt from Vladimir to Suzdal with a detour to Bogolyubovo.
Bogolyubovo is only 10km from Vladimir but legend has it that Prince Andrei Bogolyubsky’s horses returning from battle refused to keep going, so the Prince had to stay the night. While stopped along the Nerl river, he saw a vision instructing him to build a church, resulting in the creation of the Church of the Intercession on the Nerl.
Vision or not, it really is a splendid place for a church. The Nerl meanders through marsh (flooding earlier in the spring) and the simple structure rises up from the water. Even better, you have to walk a good 1km on foot to reach the church which really adds to the magic.
I also visited the large Holy Bogolyubovo Monastery. Lots of Sunday activity but nearly everywhere I turned, a sister ordered me to head the other direction. The bike suit is not so good for wandering inconspicuously. The oldest part of the monastery contains the stairs and archway were Prince Bogolyubsky was eventually killed by some jealous local nobles. Hard life being a prince in Kievian Rus.
Another 30km up the motorway and I arrived in Suzdal, also an ancient capital. Unlike Vladimir, Suzdal was bypassed by the railway, so remained hidden for most of the industrial age and only has ~10,000 residents. However, the tourist age has recently discovered its multitude of churches, religious sites and old mead recipes, so the place probably swells to 75k during the summer.
I’ve recently developed a head cold, so we’ll see if the healing power of churches (and mead) can cure it over the next few days while I’m in town.
Vladimir photos
Highlights from the ancient capital city included the city’s fortified Golden Gate (modeled on the one in Kiev which ironically is now a complete rebuild), the huge Assumption Cathedral upon which the one in the Moscow Kremlin is based and the cute but highly ornamental limestone Cathedral of St Demetrius. Also sighted a fellow bicycle tourer but he sped off before I could track him down and wedding season remains in full bloom (along with university graduation celebrations I’ve been told).
