Author Archives: papish

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Day 7: Veltrusy, Czech Republic to Prague, Czech Republic


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Start: Veltrusy, Czech Republic
End: Prague, Czech Republic
Distance: 37.8km
Elevation Gain: 1200ft
Elevation Loss: 987ft
Time: 4h2m
Reading Material: The Unbearable Lightness of Being – Milan Kundera
Audio Material: none

Description
Some reports on the internet claimed that from Berlin to Prague I would find the people becoming less friendly. This is entirely false. On this last, short day into Prague, I met many folks who wanted to stop and chat. I road alongside a security officer from Hotel Prague for several kms who was out on a day ride along the river (he works nights). We took photos (that’s why you get the first shot of me in this post) before heading off. And, in Letna Park high above Old Town Prague, one of the maintenance workers stopped to compliment the bike and told the story of his trip from Denmark to Berlin.

I had my first extended climb (as you’ll see in the elevation plot), gaining ~600ft in 4km and was rewarded with a windy descent back to the river. And, coming down from Letna Park into Prague was the steepest descent yet (200ft in 200m) straight into massive traffic. I had to ride the brakes hard.

Bicycling in the city itself is another matter. No bike lanes and recessed tram rails on every road make it very difficult to ride (you do not want to get a wheel stuck between a tram rail with a fully-loaded bike). I tried to take the most direct route to my hotel but had to dodge tourists on cobblestone near the famous Charles Bridge.

Luckily, when I arrived at the hotel Kristina had a beer waiting. She is by far the most friendly hotel proprietor I have ever met and completely deserves her astronomical TripAdvisor rating. After a shower and a detailed map overview from Kristina, I was ready to tackle Prague.

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Camping along the Vltava

First night under the stars (well, clouds and full moon). Probably could have found a cheap hotel, but this campground was right on the route. Part trailer park inhabited by several Czech women and their army of feral cats and part self-service campground. But, down by the water, I have a great spot with my own view.

And, yes, I’m posting this sitting in my tent in the rain tethering my laptop to my phone. What a strange world we live in…

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Day 6: Litoměřice, Czech Republic to Veltrusy, Czech Republic


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Start: Litoměřice, Czech Republic
End: Veltrusy, Czech Republic
Distance: 68.6km
Elevation Gain: 844ft
Elevation Loss: 866ft
Time: 6h10m
Reading Material: The Unbearable Lightness of Being – Milan Kundera
Audio Material: Diane Rehm’s Friday News Roundup (Domestic & International); On the Media

Description
Follow the yellow #2 signs, follow the yellow #2 signs. Sometimes they make sense, like long stretches right up against the Elbe. But, then sometimes they veer off into through fields of unpaved ruts. One time I dead ended and had to do some improvised hand gesture communication to determine the location of nearby private ferry (e.g. a smelly man with a small boat attached to a wire who will take you across the river for 20 Czech Koruna (about $1).

The day started a bit late as I hit up the O2 mobile store in Litoměřice for a Czech data sim card. If my mobile data addiction didn’t already feel bad, I had to endure 25min of an MTV show in English about the difficulties of preparing for the big homecoming dance while several older Czechs bartered with the salespeople. Maybe to them the show was soothing with its shots of school gymnasiums and lots of crying teenage girls, but to an English speaker in was grating.

In Mělník, the Elbe and Vltava converge and I bid farewell and follow the Vltava. Only about 35km more until I hit Prague tomorrow.

kofola and a hamburger

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Fast food Czech style. Legend has it the kofola soft drink originated in communist Slovakia when food scientists were trying to figure out what to do with the caffeinated sludge byproduct from brewing coffee. I think it tastes like a less sugary coke with a little bit of herbal anise flavoring.