Category Archives: Road Report

A roundup report from a day on the bike with stats

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Day 48: Suzdal, Russia to Ivanovo, Russia

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Start: Suzdal, Russia
End: Ivanovo, Russia
Distance: 84.5km
Elevation Gain: 1273ft
Elevation Loss: 1239ft
Time: 5h31m
Reading Material:Leningrad: The Epic Siege of World War II, 1941-1944 – Anna Reid
Audio Material: Marketplace; On The Media; Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me; Nerdist (Tig Notaro interview)

Description
Left the picturesque golden domes of Suzdal for the gritty textile city of Ivanovo. The merciful dark clouds and resulting cooler temps (hovering around a pleasant 75F) made for easy (if not overly exciting) riding on the motorway.

At several locations, passed men on the side of the rood selling assortments of industrial-sized samovars, gramophones and fake landscapes. I presume geared to the Muscovites on family holiday through the Golden Ring looking for a slice of pastoral Russia?

Ivanovo was the center of Russia’s textile industry and its history is closely intertwined with early worker strikes, revolts and possibly the first example of a local soviet before the Bolshevik revolution. The city seems on hard times since the last textile factories closed in 2000, however it has multiple universities and is trying to rebrand itself as a “City of Youth” — even qualifying as a contestant for the title of European Capital of Youth 2015. From my vantage point, however, I just saw lots of cars and a city grid where nearly every sub road was unpaved and potholed.

Tomorrow, I get back to the pastoral and meet up with the Volga.

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Day 47: Vladimir, Russia to Suzdal, Russia

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Start: Vladimir, Russia
End: Suzdal, Russia
Distance: 47.5km
Elevation Gain: 1248ft
Elevation Loss: 1262ft
Time: 4h17m
Reading Material:Leningrad: The Epic Siege of World War II, 1941-1944 – Anna Reid
Audio Material: Diane Rehm Friday News Roundups

Description
A quick jaunt from Vladimir to Suzdal with a detour to Bogolyubovo.

Bogolyubovo is only 10km from Vladimir but legend has it that Prince Andrei Bogolyubsky’s horses returning from battle refused to keep going, so the Prince had to stay the night. While stopped along the Nerl river, he saw a vision instructing him to build a church, resulting in the creation of the Church of the Intercession on the Nerl.

Vision or not, it really is a splendid place for a church. The Nerl meanders through marsh (flooding earlier in the spring) and the simple structure rises up from the water. Even better, you have to walk a good 1km on foot to reach the church which really adds to the magic.

I also visited the large Holy Bogolyubovo Monastery. Lots of Sunday activity but nearly everywhere I turned, a sister ordered me to head the other direction. The bike suit is not so good for wandering inconspicuously. The oldest part of the monastery contains the stairs and archway were Prince Bogolyubsky was eventually killed by some jealous local nobles. Hard life being a prince in Kievian Rus.

Another 30km up the motorway and I arrived in Suzdal, also an ancient capital. Unlike Vladimir, Suzdal was bypassed by the railway, so remained hidden for most of the industrial age and only has ~10,000 residents. However, the tourist age has recently discovered its multitude of churches, religious sites and old mead recipes, so the place probably swells to 75k during the summer.

I’ve recently developed a head cold, so we’ll see if the healing power of churches (and mead) can cure it over the next few days while I’m in town.

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Day 46: Kirzhach, Russia to Vladimir, Russia

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Start: Kirzhach, Russia
End: Vladimir, Russia
Distance: 118km
Elevation Gain: 2539ft
Elevation Loss: 2489ft
Time: 7h26m
Reading Material:Leningrad: The Epic Siege of World War II, 1941-1944 – Anna Reid
Audio Material: 99% Invisible; Planet Money (Trading Places episode feat. guest star Roman Mars); EconTalk (Munger on emergent codes in sports); WTF podcast (Nick Cave interview); Tiny Cities – Sun Kil Moon

Description
Second nice long day in a row finds me in Vladimir ready to begin exploring the Golden Ring of ancient Rus capitals.

Really happy with my road choice. After my forays in Ukraine, I have been cautious about anything smaller than a secondary road. However, the few segments today were in great shape so maybe I can give some more leeway to Russia roads.

Cooler temps continue greatly contributing to my comfort. Stopped for an actual sit-down lunch today in Kolchugino (Greek salad, chicken noodle soup and some elbow macaroni). Restocked on what I hope is Russian Ibuprofen (still some lingering knee pain) and tried one of these Energy+Juice drinks (better than the Mike Tyson version).

Impossible to avoid the main motorway in the final 10km approach to Vladimir. Some dicey moments dealing with heavy traffic and then leapfrogging city buses once inside city proper. Approaching Vladimir’s Golden Gate, had a chance to imagine what it would have been like to be an invading Mongol (or, given my itinerary, more likely an ancient German). Luckily Alexander Nevsky did not appear to prevent my entrance.

Vladimir was the historical center of the Vladimir-Suzdal principality during the height of the Kievan Rus Empire. It never really recovered status after the Mongol-Tartar invasion of 1238 though the ruler of Rus continued to take the Grand Prince of Vladimir honorific for quite a while. More on Vladimir history tomorrow when I take a day to explore the city.

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Day 45: Moscow, Russia to Kirzhach, Russia

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Start: Moscow, Russia
End: Kirzhach, Russia
Distance: 108km
Elevation Gain: 1325ft
Elevation Loss: 1314ft
Time: 6h44m
Reading Material:Leningrad: The Epic Siege of World War II, 1941-1944 – Anna Reid
Audio Material: Marketplace; Stuff You Should Know; WTF podcast (David Sedaris interview)

Description

After some rest, time to get back on the road.

It’s funny transitioning from city tourist to bicycle tourer. Kinda like a secret identity. Clark Kent wandering the city as a normal person (well, OK, it’s likely my hairy face, unkempt hair and single pair of pants I have been rocking for 3 months now probably disqualify me from actually blending in…though I am getting close to being able to impersonate Nick Cage circa Con Air) to Superman in my outfit and crazy loaded bicycle when many more people notice and stop me.

Case in point: Today about 15km from Moscow center, I was overtaken by a bicycle commuter with a “Salut!” We stopped at a light and started chatting. Alexander is from Rostov (one of the Golden Ring cities) and about to start a bicycle tour next week. If I caught it correctly, he’s taking a boat to Riga and then cycling to Holland. On a tourist day, we would have crossed paths without recognition but instead got to meet a new friend. Good luck Alex!

Made fast time with strong rested legs. The last few days of rain finally cooled off temps for the first time in nearly 3 weeks. First 20km involved navigating lots of 5 lane city boulevards dodging cars to avoid turning lanes. The remainder was nice pavement if a bit crowded. On my way to Vladimir, I’m avoiding the straight motorway and opting for the smaller A103/P75 combo. Spending the night about halfway in Kirzhach before the final ~120km tomorrow.

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