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Day 50: Lunevo, Russia to Kostroma, Russia

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Start: Lunevo, Russia
End: Kostroma, Russia
Distance: 36.7km
Elevation Gain: 582ft
Elevation Loss: 603ft
Time: 2h04m
Reading Material:A World at Arms: A Global History of World War II – Gerhard L. Weinberg
Audio Material: Marketplace; Bullseye (Rick Moranis interview)

Description
Quick trip on to the next Golden Ring stop just up the Volga: Kostroma.

On the A113, met a bike tourer headed in the opposite direction. Anatoyli had a nice, light setup with rear saddlebags. If we understood each other correctly, I believe he lives in Kostroma and was headed out for a nice little loop of Golden Ring towns.

Some excellent downhill traffic dodging into town. I played leapfrog with a wedding party and then passed them as they were disembarking by the river for a ceremony. Saw what I think was meant to be a sexy billboard advertising joining a convent (also, a reality TV program last night about a group of young women living in a convent)?

Rode around Kostroma’s ancient city center and famous trading stalls. Tomorrow, I’ll explore the city’s Romanov history.

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Day 49: Ivanovo, Russia to Lunevo, Russia

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Start: Ivanovo, Russia
End: Lunevo, Russia
Distance: 80.5km
Elevation Gain: 1115ft
Elevation Loss: 1161ft
Time: 5h07m
Reading Material:A World at Arms: A Global History of World War II – Gerhard L. Weinberg
Audio Material: World in Words (global Yiddish; bribery episode); This American Life (500th episode, maybe a bit too self-congratulatory); Stuff You Should Know; WTF (Jonah Hill episode)

Description
Finally met the Volga!

Passed several abandoned factories and crumbling Soviet concrete structures on the way out of Ivanovo. Still nice, cool temps as I continued to follow the A113 north. Spotted a roadside stand selling leftover stuffed animals from carnival games? Left the A113 and followed a small, choppy road past a giant power plant towards the Volga for 15km. Beautiful glimpses of the river. Along the way, discovered an abandoned brick church turning back to its original red color.

I’m staying in a cabin resort nestled in the deep and old forest along the banks of the Volga. After the ride, I walked through a Soviet-style family camp (absurd-looking exercise equipment; a group accordion sing-a-long) and took a dip in the river.

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Day 48: Suzdal, Russia to Ivanovo, Russia

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Start: Suzdal, Russia
End: Ivanovo, Russia
Distance: 84.5km
Elevation Gain: 1273ft
Elevation Loss: 1239ft
Time: 5h31m
Reading Material:Leningrad: The Epic Siege of World War II, 1941-1944 – Anna Reid
Audio Material: Marketplace; On The Media; Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me; Nerdist (Tig Notaro interview)

Description
Left the picturesque golden domes of Suzdal for the gritty textile city of Ivanovo. The merciful dark clouds and resulting cooler temps (hovering around a pleasant 75F) made for easy (if not overly exciting) riding on the motorway.

At several locations, passed men on the side of the rood selling assortments of industrial-sized samovars, gramophones and fake landscapes. I presume geared to the Muscovites on family holiday through the Golden Ring looking for a slice of pastoral Russia?

Ivanovo was the center of Russia’s textile industry and its history is closely intertwined with early worker strikes, revolts and possibly the first example of a local soviet before the Bolshevik revolution. The city seems on hard times since the last textile factories closed in 2000, however it has multiple universities and is trying to rebrand itself as a “City of Youth” — even qualifying as a contestant for the title of European Capital of Youth 2015. From my vantage point, however, I just saw lots of cars and a city grid where nearly every sub road was unpaved and potholed.

Tomorrow, I get back to the pastoral and meet up with the Volga.