#planking in Suzdal
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Bicycle Brigades
While researching Soviet WWII history, I came across reference to bicycle brigades used by the Germans as part of the siege of Leningrad (St. Petersburg). Evidently, the bicycle infantryman was seen as a replacement for the cavalry messenger and able to transport supplies in places where truck and tank travel was impossible. There’s a whole lengthy history here (including pics of folding bicycles in action). So, maybe another antecedent for my current trip.
Day 47: Vladimir, Russia to Suzdal, Russia
Start: Vladimir, Russia
End: Suzdal, Russia
Distance: 47.5km
Elevation Gain: 1248ft
Elevation Loss: 1262ft
Time: 4h17m
Reading Material:Leningrad: The Epic Siege of World War II, 1941-1944 – Anna Reid
Audio Material: Diane Rehm Friday News Roundups
Description
A quick jaunt from Vladimir to Suzdal with a detour to Bogolyubovo.
Bogolyubovo is only 10km from Vladimir but legend has it that Prince Andrei Bogolyubsky’s horses returning from battle refused to keep going, so the Prince had to stay the night. While stopped along the Nerl river, he saw a vision instructing him to build a church, resulting in the creation of the Church of the Intercession on the Nerl.
Vision or not, it really is a splendid place for a church. The Nerl meanders through marsh (flooding earlier in the spring) and the simple structure rises up from the water. Even better, you have to walk a good 1km on foot to reach the church which really adds to the magic.
I also visited the large Holy Bogolyubovo Monastery. Lots of Sunday activity but nearly everywhere I turned, a sister ordered me to head the other direction. The bike suit is not so good for wandering inconspicuously. The oldest part of the monastery contains the stairs and archway were Prince Bogolyubsky was eventually killed by some jealous local nobles. Hard life being a prince in Kievian Rus.
Another 30km up the motorway and I arrived in Suzdal, also an ancient capital. Unlike Vladimir, Suzdal was bypassed by the railway, so remained hidden for most of the industrial age and only has ~10,000 residents. However, the tourist age has recently discovered its multitude of churches, religious sites and old mead recipes, so the place probably swells to 75k during the summer.
I’ve recently developed a head cold, so we’ll see if the healing power of churches (and mead) can cure it over the next few days while I’m in town.
Vladimir photos
Highlights from the ancient capital city included the city’s fortified Golden Gate (modeled on the one in Kiev which ironically is now a complete rebuild), the huge Assumption Cathedral upon which the one in the Moscow Kremlin is based and the cute but highly ornamental limestone Cathedral of St Demetrius. Also sighted a fellow bicycle tourer but he sped off before I could track him down and wedding season remains in full bloom (along with university graduation celebrations I’ve been told).
Day 46: Kirzhach, Russia to Vladimir, Russia
Start: Kirzhach, Russia
End: Vladimir, Russia
Distance: 118km
Elevation Gain: 2539ft
Elevation Loss: 2489ft
Time: 7h26m
Reading Material:Leningrad: The Epic Siege of World War II, 1941-1944 – Anna Reid
Audio Material: 99% Invisible; Planet Money (Trading Places episode feat. guest star Roman Mars); EconTalk (Munger on emergent codes in sports); WTF podcast (Nick Cave interview); Tiny Cities – Sun Kil Moon
Description
Second nice long day in a row finds me in Vladimir ready to begin exploring the Golden Ring of ancient Rus capitals.
Really happy with my road choice. After my forays in Ukraine, I have been cautious about anything smaller than a secondary road. However, the few segments today were in great shape so maybe I can give some more leeway to Russia roads.
Cooler temps continue greatly contributing to my comfort. Stopped for an actual sit-down lunch today in Kolchugino (Greek salad, chicken noodle soup and some elbow macaroni). Restocked on what I hope is Russian Ibuprofen (still some lingering knee pain) and tried one of these Energy+Juice drinks (better than the Mike Tyson version).
Impossible to avoid the main motorway in the final 10km approach to Vladimir. Some dicey moments dealing with heavy traffic and then leapfrogging city buses once inside city proper. Approaching Vladimir’s Golden Gate, had a chance to imagine what it would have been like to be an invading Mongol (or, given my itinerary, more likely an ancient German). Luckily Alexander Nevsky did not appear to prevent my entrance.
Vladimir was the historical center of the Vladimir-Suzdal principality during the height of the Kievan Rus Empire. It never really recovered status after the Mongol-Tartar invasion of 1238 though the ruler of Rus continued to take the Grand Prince of Vladimir honorific for quite a while. More on Vladimir history tomorrow when I take a day to explore the city.
