Tag Archives: bicycle touring

Day 5: Děčín, Czech Republic to Litoměřice, Czech Republic

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Start: Děčín, Czech Republic
End: Litoměřice, Czech Republic
Distance: 56.0km
Elevation Gain: 1062ft
Elevation Loss: 1121ft
Time: 5h08m
Reading Material: The Unbearable Lightness of Being – Milan Kundera
Audio Material: Off The Air Podcast (eps 41 w/ Maron); APM’s Marketplace

Description

Today’s bicycle goal was pretty easy. Travel 50km along the Elbe and reach the Terezin Concentration Camp with enough time to fully explore before the exhibits closed at 6pm. A full report on Terezin is forthcoming but I needed the full 3.5hrs and still couldn’t grasp the enormity (emotional & physical) of the place. I don’t really enjoy timeboxing the ride, since I get antsy and am more inclined to pedal head’s down instead of taking in the ride. The Elbe is very curvy in this section making the final approach feel asymptotic.

While well-signed, the Czech-side of the route is more variable with multiple unpaved sections and lots of short climbs off the riverbed to meet a nearby road only to plunge back to a new section of bike path several 100m ahead. Being a Sunday, many families were out enjoying the day and, at one point, I had to deal with a headwind of 5k race runners.

I reached Litoměřice (one of the oldest Czech cities) by 2pm. Stashed my gear in a hotel and then pedaled across the river to Terezin. Had to forgo lunch but touring a concentration camp on an empty stomach is probably preferred.

Cliffs above the Elbe

Day 4: Dresden, Germany to Děčín, Czech Republic

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Start: Dresden, Germany
End: Děčín, Czech Republic
Distance: 69.5km
Elevation Gain: 1278ft
Elevation Loss: 931ft
Time: 6h48m
Reading Material: The Unbearable Lightness of Being – Milan Kundera
Audio Material: None needed, landscape sufficient

Description

Majestic day. Now I realize why bicycle tourists prefer actual bicycle routes. Over the next four days, the Elbe river won’t leave my sight as I traverse the Elbe Radweg (Germany side)/ R2 Cycle Route (Czech side) all the way from Dresden to Prague.

So far the path is a middle-aged cyclists dream (paved, rolling, perfectly signed, hugging the river bank and passing all types of accommodations/beer gardens every few kms). I began the previous sentence sarcastically invoking middle-age, but it’s quite possible I’m already there.

A few small tweaks made while stopped in Dresden have dialed-in the comfort on the bike. These include: rotating up the hoods on the handlebars, tilting the nose of the saddle up slightly to counteract the slippery-ness of a new Brooks and a pair of black leather short-gloves from the Bike Center to replace my torn pair. Several times during the day I inhaled new leather scent and thought of Buzz Bissinger.

The Elbe appears to be about 150m wide and fast-flowing (opposite direction to my travel). Too cold for a dip (50F with layered clouds of purple and grey) but I had the chance to cross twice via diesel ferries (2EUR/trip). Sandstone cliffs cut by the river tower above. Cyclists of all ages abound–a few appear to be on short tours with small panniers but most are out for day rides (I’d do the same if I lived here). And, once I crossed into the Czech Republic the rollerbladers started to appear (no outdoor ice this time of year for the hockey loving Czechs). And, yes, Jagr mullets, fannypacks and day-glo windbreakers are still in style. Oh post-communism states, how I love you.

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Day 3: Elsterwalde, Germany to Dresden, Germany

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Start: Elsterwalde, Germany
End: Dresden, Germany
Distance: 56.8km
Elevation Gain: 1041ft
Elevation Loss: 947ft
Time: 5h09m
Reading Material: The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao – Junot Diaz
Audio Material: Queen’s Queen II; NPR’s On The Media

Description
Today was mostly an exercise in making distance. Didn’t have too far to go, but Dresden was waiting for me. Ever notice how as you approach your goal (hiking, biking, climbing, writing, etc) the last little bit always seems to take the longest?

It was fun watching the countryside change from farms (“frische Eier” signs reminding me of Vermont; and copious horseshit on the side paths) to urban. I started seeing road bike weenies on day rides about 15km from Dresden. And, then I entered the city and joined the urban bikers in their lanes for the last little bit.

I’m staying in an apartment right in tourist central across from the Frauenkirche. I was tired upon arrival but figuring out where to stash the bike (and all my stuff!) while locating check-in was not fun–not to mention dodging portly Germans and school groups on holiday. Once settled, I wandered off to find a beer reward and blend into the tourists.

Day 2: Luckenwalde, Germany to Elsterwerda, Germany

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Start: Luckenwalde, Germany
End: Elsterwerda, Germany
Distance: 87.5km
Elevation Gain: 1033ft
Elevation Loss: 903ft
Time: 6h51m
Reading Material: The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao – Junot Diaz
Audio Material: WTF Podcast w/ Marc Maron (eps 377); Game Theory Podcast (eps 16: Sex & Violence)

Description
A good long day. While I haven’t been specifically choosing bike-friendly routes, I enjoyed a nice 10km stretch on a wide, recently paved bike path next to the B101. The last 10km into Elsterwerda, however, was both uphill and on a busy 2-lane road. Jim Fingal’s unintentional entendres from the Video Game podcast (“headshots”, “pulling the joystick”) helped ease the pain of the last few kms.

Day’s highlight was most certainly lunch at the Boxenstoppe (literally a box restaurant on the side of the road) in Schönewalde. First, the Hamburger Schnitzel (3EUR) hit the spot. Then, the friendly patrons. During the meal, a bearded man on a moped pulled up. Turns out he’s a Dane who has been traveling via moped from Greece to Berlin before beginning University next year. We had a good time comparing routes and motives. I was a bit jealous of his moped which gets 30km/hr to my (generous) 15km/hr. Also, he’s got way more range.

Evening was at a family-run hotel in Elsterwerda with a cozy cave-themed basement restaurant. I was so tired I fell asleep by 830pm.

Day 1: Berlin to Luckenwalde, Germany

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Start: Berlin, Germany
End: Luckenwalde, Germany
Distance: 63.1km
Elevation Gain: 1164ft
Elevation Loss: 773ft
Time: 5h45m
Reading Material: The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao – Junot Diaz
Audio Material: Diane Rehm’s Friday News Roundup (Domestic & International)

Description
A beautiful day to begin. Our discontented winter is over and hopefully spring brings something better. With a latte (on the house) and a Chemex (for the road) from my new friends at Bonanza Coffee Heroes, we’re off.

The first 15km was spent mainly getting out of Berlin. The fully-loaded bike actually handles quite well, but you still have to move slow and deliberate in city traffic–much different than weaving lanes on a fixie in Cambridge. I won’t lie: spirits were low as I battled the last of Berlin traffic. My right knee had begun to act up, and I wasn’t able to enjoy the ride with so many potential dangers to track. A quick rest on a small patch of green in front of a Lidle and then, finally, the open road.

My mood immediately improved with empty blacktop (and 400mg of Ibuprofen coursing through the system). The remainder of the leg alternated on low-traffic two lane road and a nice, meandering paved bike path which tracked the B101 highway. Relying on Google Map directions, I did need to portage some railroad tracks, but otherwise the route was excellent. My favorite was when the road entered small towns (e.g Trebbin) and I got a few spins on some cobblestone.

My knee improved, as well. Keeping the right foot uncleated and spinning in a low gear at a constant speed helped. The last 30km was blissful with the dulcet sounds of Diane Rehm (say what you will about her voice, but she’s really the most balanced host NPR features) in my ear, I was finally able to settle into the ride. I think the knee should be fine and current plan is to try and lower the saddle a smidge and see if I can cleat without issue.

Decided to get my road legs under me early in the trip and opted for a hotel in Luckenwalde for the night instead of a field. Dinner was Italian at an Indian/Italian (also gyros!) restaurant. The town is old, beautiful and deserted. I leave you with the following descriptive prose from Luckenwalde’s wikipedia page:

In 1923, architect Erich Mendelsohn erected the Herrmann hat factory, a milestone of Expressionist architecture. During WW2, there was a Stalag for prisoners of war (Stalag IIIa). There was also a work camp for civilians. Nazis forced people to work for their war effort, else the families of people who worked there would perish. Lack of food and hard work killed thousands of them. Among them were Poles, Italians, French and many more. There were several places in town and around it where they worked. After the Russians showed up to liberate the camp, American POW’s ventured into town to to find Russians raping and killing, hanging women and children out of windows. German girls went to the Gi’s for protection and the Russians did not bother the girls when they were with them. But after feeling threatened by the Russians who had the guns they left town and headed back to camp. When they got there the fences were back up and they were now prisoners of the Russians. The Russians asked for name rank and serial number but the Gi’s refused telling the Russians they were comrades and should not be treated as prisoners. [AR15.com]