Highlights from the ancient capital city included the city’s fortified Golden Gate (modeled on the one in Kiev which ironically is now a complete rebuild), the huge Assumption Cathedral upon which the one in the Moscow Kremlin is based and the cute but highly ornamental limestone Cathedral of St Demetrius. Also sighted a fellow bicycle tourer but he sped off before I could track him down and wedding season remains in full bloom (along with university graduation celebrations I’ve been told).
Start: Kirzhach, Russia
End: Vladimir, Russia
Distance: 118km
Elevation Gain: 2539ft
Elevation Loss: 2489ft
Time: 7h26m
Reading Material:Leningrad: The Epic Siege of World War II, 1941-1944 – Anna Reid
Audio Material: 99% Invisible; Planet Money (Trading Places episode feat. guest star Roman Mars); EconTalk (Munger on emergent codes in sports); WTF podcast (Nick Cave interview); Tiny Cities – Sun Kil Moon
Description
Second nice long day in a row finds me in Vladimir ready to begin exploring the Golden Ring of ancient Rus capitals.
Really happy with my road choice. After my forays in Ukraine, I have been cautious about anything smaller than a secondary road. However, the few segments today were in great shape so maybe I can give some more leeway to Russia roads.
Cooler temps continue greatly contributing to my comfort. Stopped for an actual sit-down lunch today in Kolchugino (Greek salad, chicken noodle soup and some elbow macaroni). Restocked on what I hope is Russian Ibuprofen (still some lingering knee pain) and tried one of these Energy+Juice drinks (better than the Mike Tyson version).
Impossible to avoid the main motorway in the final 10km approach to Vladimir. Some dicey moments dealing with heavy traffic and then leapfrogging city buses once inside city proper. Approaching Vladimir’s Golden Gate, had a chance to imagine what it would have been like to be an invading Mongol (or, given my itinerary, more likely an ancient German). Luckily Alexander Nevsky did not appear to prevent my entrance.
Vladimir was the historical center of the Vladimir-Suzdal principality during the height of the Kievan Rus Empire. It never really recovered status after the Mongol-Tartar invasion of 1238 though the ruler of Rus continued to take the Grand Prince of Vladimir honorific for quite a while. More on Vladimir history tomorrow when I take a day to explore the city.
Start: Moscow, Russia
End: Kirzhach, Russia
Distance: 108km
Elevation Gain: 1325ft
Elevation Loss: 1314ft
Time: 6h44m
Reading Material:Leningrad: The Epic Siege of World War II, 1941-1944 – Anna Reid
Audio Material: Marketplace; Stuff You Should Know; WTF podcast (David Sedaris interview)
Description
After some rest, time to get back on the road.
It’s funny transitioning from city tourist to bicycle tourer. Kinda like a secret identity. Clark Kent wandering the city as a normal person (well, OK, it’s likely my hairy face, unkempt hair and single pair of pants I have been rocking for 3 months now probably disqualify me from actually blending in…though I am getting close to being able to impersonate Nick Cage circa Con Air) to Superman in my outfit and crazy loaded bicycle when many more people notice and stop me.
Case in point: Today about 15km from Moscow center, I was overtaken by a bicycle commuter with a “Salut!” We stopped at a light and started chatting. Alexander is from Rostov (one of the Golden Ring cities) and about to start a bicycle tour next week. If I caught it correctly, he’s taking a boat to Riga and then cycling to Holland. On a tourist day, we would have crossed paths without recognition but instead got to meet a new friend. Good luck Alex!
Made fast time with strong rested legs. The last few days of rain finally cooled off temps for the first time in nearly 3 weeks. First 20km involved navigating lots of 5 lane city boulevards dodging cars to avoid turning lanes. The remainder was nice pavement if a bit crowded. On my way to Vladimir, I’m avoiding the straight motorway and opting for the smaller A103/P75 combo. Spending the night about halfway in Kirzhach before the final ~120km tomorrow.
