Start: Popil’yna, Ukraine End: Kiev, Ukraine Distance: 128.0km Elevation Gain: 2210ft Elevation Loss: 2396ft Time: 8h58m Reading Material:Ukraine: A History, 4th Edition – Orest Subtelny Audio Material: Diane Rehm Friday News Roundup; On The Media; Channel Orange – Frank Ocean
Description
Super long day but the promise of Kiev and a warm shower lay ahead. Breakfast from my reserve stash of chocolate porridge and an early start. Roads began in good condition but then a long stretch of half-pavement. And, then out of nowhere, 5km of cobblestones in the middle of nowhere through farms fields. I felt like I was in the Paris–Roubaix race.
Cobblestone is a funny surface. In the 15th century, cobblestones were a mark of well-constructed roads as it prevented both mud and dust from forming. And, cobbles had the advantage of making a lot of noise to warn pedestrians of oncoming “fast” moving vehicles (horses, carriages, bicycles and eventually cars). Of course, this is the sound of wheels being jarred. Bicyclists actually played a large role in advocating to replace cobbles with paved surface in the late 19th and early 20th century. The money quote is “Bicycling was an extremely popular recreation among the middle and upper classes in the late 19th century and was more fun on paved roads.”
The cobbled classic bicycle races (e.g. Tour of Flanders and Paris–Roubaix) are famous not because cobbles make for good cycling but instead add an element of danger and surprise. During today’s cobbled classic, I mostly stuck to dirt single-tracks alongside the main road which showed a good amount of bicycle wear from other weary travelers.
The approach to Kiev was on a major artery. The Kiev metro area is probably the largest I’ve seen since Berlin and it took a good 1.5hr to reach the city center. I’ll be holing up in an apartment here for the next 10 days, getting some rest and plotting my route to Moscow and Saint Petersburg. Expect posting to be light for a bit.
Start: Berdychiv, Ukraine End: Popil’yna, Ukraine Distance: 74.6km Elevation Gain: 974ft Elevation Loss: 1068ft Time: 6h24m Reading Material:The Good Soldier Švejk – Jaroslav Hašek; Ukraine: A History, 4th Edition – Orest Subtelny Audio Material: Transom; Nerdist (interview w/ Jesse Thorn who is everywhere suddenly, our generation’s Terry Gross??); WTF podcast; NPR’s All Songs Considered
Description
Ran into fellow bicycle tourers for the first time since the Czech Republic. A couple and their super cute 3 year-old daughter Marta (patiently riding in a child’s seat and rocking some awesome pink shades). Originally from Poland, they were returning from China via Kyrgyzstan. Unable to secure a Russian visa, they took a train for a bit and were now transiting Ukraine towards home.
We compared notes for about an hour while somewhat angry drivers dodged our roadside meeting. They bought bikes while in China and were pretty amazed they were still holding up. I was amazed at their ability to minimize gear: about 30kg from all three! For some reason, they hadn’t yet had my hospitality luck with Ukrainians. They surmised it might be my beard. I think maybe Ukrainians just don’t find Poles as interesting since they meet them all the time…they can even understand each other! They were looking for a nice lake for a swim/clean and I recommended my spot, hopefully they get a similar welcome. I had read many online accounts of bike touring with kids, but great to see it in action and with such a happy little girl. And, just nice to run into fellow travelers — maybe biking across Ukraine isn’t that crazy.
The rest of the day was mostly uneventful. Long stretches without tree cover meant strong crosswinds which seriously slowed my pace. I had gotten a late start (~10am) and with the mini-summit, I decided to find shelter around 5pm. I’m within striking distance of Kiev (~120km) and will aim to hit the city tomorrow evening.
Start: Molochky, Ukraine End: Berdychiv, Ukraine Distance: 49.5km Elevation Gain: 561ft Elevation Loss: 608ft Time: 3h24m Reading Material:The Good Soldier Švejk – Jaroslav Hašek; Ukraine: A History, 4th Edition – Orest Subtelny Audio Material: Diane Rehm; WBUR’s Only a Game
Description
A short day but I had already targeted a stop in Berdychiv. The morning was hot, hazy sun and humid. There wasn’t much shade while I filled up on Anatoyli’s fish stew breakfast and I was pretty tired from only getting 4 hours of sleep the night before.
The Ukraine road is starting to get to me. Straight and paved but with bumps, ribbons and potholes to make smooth riding nearly impossible. My hands continue to vibrate for a good five minutes after I get off the bike and some gear (camera lens filter, thermos, kickstand) is starting to get beat up from the conditions.
Stopped for a morning coffee and watched a turtle attempt the cutest escape ever from its water bowl (like watching a puppy try to climb over a small fence). Stupidly left wallet behind while watching turtle but was saved by the waitress.
Did a little exploring in Berdychiv before the afternoon thunderstorms rolled in. Berdychiv was the second-largest Jewish city in the entire Russia Empire in 1860 (~45,000) and 80% of the population was Jewish. While I’m not versed in the various Hassidic sects, it is a popular pilgrimage town for the followers of Levi Yitzchok. Berdychiv is also home to the laziest dogs I have ever seen. They lie in packs on the sidewalks and appear dead.
I was able to locate the only remaining synagogue but couldn’t figure out a way to get inside. There’s a Jewish cemetery somewhere outside of town but my energy flagged and I might try to find that tomorrow on the way out. Took a nap. At dinner, I was joined by Alexander (a criminal defense lawyer), his pregnant girlfriend (not wife, “I don’t want to locked up like that!” she said convincingly) and her friend (all age 30) since tables were tight. Super friendly and inquisitive. We finished with cognac toasts and I wandered off to get some more rest.
Start: Starokostyantyniv, Ukraine End: Molochky, Ukraine Distance: 81.2km Elevation Gain: 1221ft Elevation Loss: 1218ft Time: 6h05m Reading Material:The Good Soldier Švejk – Jaroslav Hašek; Ukraine: A History, 4th Edition – Orest Subtelny Audio Material: Transom; Game Theory Podcast (yay new episode, but don’t eat cookies on mic guys!)
Description
Today I learned what it is like to be a dolphin stranded in a tidal pool.
Most of the day’s ride was spent under threatening skies but no real rain. As I reached the 75km mark, I spied a good-sized lake nearby on the map and decided to scope it out for camping spots. This ploy goes against most guidelines for “wild camping” since the lake, as you might expect, is the center of the farming village making it difficult to find a secluded spot. I rode around most of the lake (on one stretch had to run a gauntlet of small but loud dogs who couldn’t quite figure out how to stop a bicycle) but returned to a central spot with a nice, flat grassy “beach” area. Hung out for an hour and read while gauging foot traffic. There were a couple of cows grazing and a few people going by, but the spot was so nice and no one seemed to mind my presence that I decided to make camp.
Two 7 year-old twin brothers ran by on their way to fish. They gawked at my tent and bashfully watched from a distance. I tried to say hello but with communication failure, resorted to sharing some chocolate Princess Leia / Ewok style. They didn’t warn of approaching Stormtroopers but also didn’t seem to mind my presence.
Thunderclouds were gathering, so I tried to quickly get everything setup and batten down the hatches. A group of three guys came over to and using hand gestures and a few common words was able to describe my bike trip. One of them, Anatoyli said that he does long-distance motobiking trips. The rain started, so I retreated into the tent.
After about 30 minutes of hard rain, skies cleared and I emerged to make dinner (Tesco canned spaghetti O’s, and spicy lime ramen) in the interlude. Just as I finished, a real thunder and lightning storm started. I got ready for bed, and figured to read and turn in early. A few minutes later, I heard a “Hello, Mikhail?” Anatoyli had returned. He was worried about me in the storm. I was confused but followed him out of my tent and into his car.
Anatoyli had brought beer, hot borscht, bread, onions and pork for me. Amazing! Double dinner never hurt and as I ate we tried to talk. It was hard work communicating but we did OK. Bonded over music as he professed his love for Rammstein and “heavy metal” and we rocked out to Mutter. Never underestimate the power of music. We couldn’t speak a common language and I was far from home, but Rammstein communicated far more.
The rain let up and Anatoyli tried to say something about fish. He wanted to invite me back to his house but I had already setup the tent and got ready for the night. I got out of the car (roll down the window, reach out and open the passenger door from the outside, “Soviet” says Anatoyli with a laugh).
Ten minutes later Anatoyli was back with more beer and firewood. While wet, we got to work on making a fire. And, then his friends returned and we all sat around eating peanuts and drinking beer for several hours. Camera phones were used to show pictures of family, friends and generally make sense of what everyone was trying to say. Around 10pm his friends left again with something about fish that I didn’t quite catch. It was past my bedtime, and I was smokey and wet. Around 11pm, his friends returned…with a large carp they had just caught and a cast iron pot and spit. They proceeded to cook fresh fish stew and at 1230am, I had dinner #3.
They could tell I was tired, so we said goodbyes, but again something about fish. I slept pretty well for the tent, but was awoken around 430am by the sound of car. Anatoyli and his red Soviet beater had returned to catch me fish for breakfast! While I tried to get some more sleep, Anatoyli started a fire, setup his lines and had breakfast-just-outside-bed ready by 730am.
It was like I was an exotic dolphin that had somehow washed ashore on the beach of a lake and Anatoyli and his friends had decided to take care of me until I could return to the sea. Now, the attention, friendship and food was appreciated. However, it is also hardwork being a stranded dolphin that doesn’t speak Ukrainian and I didn’t really get a chance to relax (or sleep!).
The entire group returned around 8am, and we finished up breakfast as I started to try and prep camp for takedown and packing. I was given another care package and (including the items from the Yatsuks) I think I have an entire pannier filled with cured pork. I think it was time for them to go to work, so we said goodbyes (“to my new Ukrainian brother!”) and prepared to head off for the day.
Ukrainian hospitality is incredible. Worried about a dolphin far from home, they will offer you their home, food, time and friendship. Also, their Rammstein.
“Two millennia ago, Alans was the name for Iranian-speaking East Sarmatian nomad tribes. Tall and good-looking with fair hair and menacing looks, the Alans were more warlike than other ethnic groups related to them.” http://ukrainianweek.com/History/56230
